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STSTRUCTIONS 




DRAFTING 



WILSON'S 



]fa Tailor ^te»| 



E)RESS JUTTING. 



V 

J. A. Wilson & Co.. 

SOLE PROPRIETORS, 
No. 243 State Street, - - Rooms 49 and 50, 

INGERSOLL & MARSH, PRINTERS, 170 CLARK ST. 



MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 



1. 


Arms -Eye Measure, - 


11 inches 


2. 


Slope Measure, 


8 " 


3. 


Length of Back, 


- 16 " 


4. 


Width of Back, - 


14 " 


5. 


Length of Shoulder, 


7 « 


6. 


Bust Measure, 


36 " 


7. 


Waist Measure, 


- 24 « 


8. 


Top of Dart, 


- 14^ " 


9. 


Front Measure, 


19 " 


10. 


Sleeve, 


12-10 " 


11. 


Skirt, - - - 


40 " 



+ + 

INSTRUCTIONS 

FOR 

DRAFTING 

BY 

WILSON'S 

New Tailor-System 



Dress Cutting. 



J5To»..3./-V-*' , 



,SON & CO., 



J. A. Wilsoi 

SOLE PROPRIETORS, 
No. 243 State Street, - - Rooms 49 and 50, 

CHICAGO. 



*- 



+ + 

tor as being entirely beyond the reach of com- 
petition, when its accurate and scientific prin- 
ciples shall have been more widely known in 
its improved form, and by its new title, "Wil- 
son's New Tailor-System of Dress-Cutting. 

By this System the art of Dress Cutting 
has been placed within the reach of all. The 
humblest sewing girl, or poorly paid clerk can 
master all its details, and rise at once to the 
prosperous condition of those who have achiev- 
ed success only by long years of toil, and by 
the old and laborious methods. The simple 
adaptation of plain inches to measures is a val- 
uable feature of this System, while nothing of 
a scientific character has been omitted. The 
inventor fully believes that he has now achiev- 
ed the ultimatum of success in the art and sci- 
ence of giving correct shapes in Ladies attire, 
and that the "Human Form Divine" can at 
last be draped in garments of accurate pro- 
portions, and in the graceful curves which add 
so much to its beauty. 

Each piece of material is so shaped to the 
form in artistic proportion, that when sewed 
into place, the entire garment cannot fail to 
display the elegance of the figure, while ease 
and comfort will be found to be not least 
among the valuable features. 

+ + 



+ — + 

The Inventor has well earned the thanks of 
an appreciative public, and will no doubt re- 
ceive that grateful reward, as well as a " Golden 
Harvest" from every part of the civilized 
world. Toiling millions will hail with delight 
this labor-saving invention, and there will be 
no home in the land, where the introduction 
of Wilson's New Tailor-System of Dress- 
Cutting wil) not be welcomed as a source of 
immediate and lasting pleasure. 

The Proprietors feel confident therefore, that 
this System will meet with the success and the 
extensive patronage which it deserves, and 
that its progressive influence will long be felt 
in every land where art in dress is a promi- 
nent factor in society. 

We are now permanently located in the 
Elegant Tobey Building, No. 243 State 
Street, Rooms 49 & 50. 

J. A. WILSON & CO., 

Inventors and Sole Proprietors of Wilson's 
Tailor-System of Dress-Cutting. 






-fr 



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ONE-HALF OF THE BACK DRAFTING. 




Always learn the back 
drafting first, commenc- 
ing at upper left hand 
corner of paper, and draw 
each line in rotation just 
as they are numbered in 
the diagram. 

Line 1, is drawn from 
arrow five down the length 
of back, one and one-half 
inches from edge of paper 
for hem. 

Line 2, is drawn to bust 
number on row E. Now 
make a dot on line 1 at 
slope measure, from line 
2 down, and another dot 
at one-half of slope for 
point of shoulder. 

Line 3, is drawn from 
first dot to one-half the 
width of BACK. 

Line 4, is drawn from 
the next dot eight or nine 
inches, as you see it in cut. 

Line 5, is drawn from 
the end of line 2 and the 

length Of SHOULDER MEA- 
SURE touching line 4. 



4- 



-4 



+ 



-+ 



Line 6, is drawn by turning the scale over and 
placing arrow 1 on the end of line 3, and drawn 
to point of shoulder. 

Line 7, is drawn from the lower end of line 1 to 
waist number on row B. Before moving scale, 
dot one-half and two inches in on line 7 from line 1. 

Line 8, is drawn from the center of line 5 and 
crosses line 7 two inches from line 1 drawn full 
length of paper. Curved line 8 is drawn by plac- 
ing arrow 1 a little below the center of line 6, and 
drawn down to the junctions of lines 7 and 8. 

Line 9, is drawn from the junction of lines 1 and 
3 to the one-half inch dot on line 7, then continued 
below the waist parallel with line 8. 

Line 10, is drawn by placing arrow 2 on the end 
of line 7 and drawn up to the junction of lines 3 
and 6. 

Line 11, is drawn below the waist from the junc- 
tion of lines 7 and 8, parallel with line 9 above 
the waist. 

Line 12, is drawn parallel with line 11. 

Now cut the back out on the outside lines all 
around, and use the same to get the pitch of the 
front shoulder. Do not consider line 1 anything 
from line 3 down. 



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+ 



-f- 




-f- 



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9 

ONE-HALF OF FRONT DRAFTING. 

(See Page 8.) 

Line 1 9 is drawn the same as in the back draft- 
ing, full length of scale. 

Line 2, is drawn five inches long. Before mov- 
ing Scale make a dot three inches down on line 1 for 
line 3. 

Line 3 ? is drawn from last dot about fourteen 
inches long. 

Line 4, is drawn from the end of line 2, to the 
junction of lines 1 and 3. Now make a dot on 
line 1, from line 3 down at bust number on row C. 
Then slide Scale up until bust number on row E 
touches line 4, and make another dot. Then draw 

Line A, with neck curve from one dot to the 
other, now take the back drafting which you 
have just cut out, and turn it end for end, placing 
the center of the back on line 4 and slide it along 
until the junction of lines 2 and 5 in the back 
touches line A, and make a dot; then hold the pat- 
tern at this point, and shift the balance of the pat- 
tern until the end of line 3 in the back touches line 
3 in the front, and make another dot; also make 
dot at point of shoulder. 

Line 5, is drawn from the dot on line A to the dot 
at point of shoulder. 

Line 6, is drawn by placing arrow 1 on the dot 
you made on line 3, and is drawn to point of shoul- 
der. 

Line B. Measure the distance from the dot on 
line 3 to the point of shoulder, and let the same ex- 



-+ 



+ 



+ 



^ . ^ 

10 

tend perpendicularly above the sboulder point as 
per dotted line in diagram, then dot down at arms 
eye measure (suppose it might be eleven inches). 
Then line B is drawn over last dot square with line 
1, length of Scale. 

Front Arms-Eye is drawn by placing the inside 
corner of Scale on the same last dot, and draw up 
to point of shoulder. Now add one-half the width 
of the back to line B, and dot over at one-half of 
bust measure, and one and one-half inches more 
on line B; dot again one-half the distance from 
last dot to front of arms-eye (see cross on line B). 

Line C, is drawm down from last dot the distance 
of between lines 3 and 7 in back drafting. 

Line 7 (or waist line). First make a dot on line 
1 from the upper end of line A, diagonally for the 
top of the darts; also make another dot on line 1 
from the same point the distance of front meas- 
ure; then draw line 7 from the last dot to the end 
of line C, and then continue by placing letter C 
on the end of line 7 and arrow 9 (on Scale) touch- 
ing line C, which will give the desired pitch. 

Lines 8 and 9. Dot on line 7 one inch on each 
side of ]ine C, then draw lines 8 and 9 to the junc- 
tion of lines B C, as you see them. 

Line 10, is drawn parallel with line 9, a little 
above bust dot on line B to receive the arms-eye. 
Then make line 10 in the front the same length of 
line 10 in the back from the waist line up, and make 
a dot. Then continue the front arms-eye up to 
last dot. Turn the Scale so that line 6 will member 
and look easy. 



H*-- 



+ 



-HEH 



11 

Line 11, is drawn by placing arrow 1 on the dot 
you made on line 1 for the top of the darts and the 
inside of the Scale touching the junction of lines 
B C, and draw line 11 as shown in diagram. 

Line C, is continued below the waist parallel with 
line 9. Lines 8 and 9 are then continued with a 
reversed curve. Have arrow 2 (on Scale) nine 
inches down on line C. 

Line 12, is drawn by turning the; Scale over and 
placing arrow 5 on the junction of lines 6 and 10, 
and the inside of Scale touching the junction of 
7 and 10, then draw line 12 as you see it. 



HOW TO GET THE SIZE OF THE DARTS. 

Addjthe length of line 7 in the back to line 7 in 
the front (skip the under arm dart), and all that re- 
mains over one-half of waist measure is taken up in 
the two front darts. Should there be four inches 
remaining, then _each dart would be two inches, 
placing the first dart two inches in from line 1 on 
line 7, the size of dart two inches, then one inch 
space between the darts; then dot over two inches 
more for the next dart; now draw lines 13 and 14 
down through the center of each dart parallel with 
line 1. The last four lines are drawn as you see 
them in diagram to intersect lines 13 and 14 ten 
inches below line 7. 



-n--- 



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12 



-+ 




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*- 



-HJH 



13 

HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 

(See Page 12.) 

First make dot 1 at arrow 5, dot 2 down the dis- 
tance from shoulder to elbow, dot 3 at arrow 4, 
and dot 4 at arrow 6, and dot 5 at arrow 8. Now 
draw 

Line A, from dot 1 to dot 2, then 

Line B, from dot 1 to dot 4. 

Line C, is drawn with neck curve from dot 3 
to dot 4. 

Line D, is drawn from dot 1, passing over dot 5 
to bust number on row A, and make dot 6. Now 
turn Scale over and place arrow 1, on dot 4, and 
continue line C to dot 6. Now make dot 7 two inches 
in from dot 3 and draw 

Line E, by placing arrow 1 on dot 7, and draw 
line E to dot 6. 

Line F, is drawn by placing arrow 5 on dot 2, 
and figure 6 (near arrow 7) touching line A, then 
draw line F to bust number on row B, and make 
dot 8; make dot 9 one and one-half inches in from 
dot 2, then continue line A by placing arrow 5 on 
dot 2, and figure 6 (near arrow 7) touching line F, 
then continue line A the distance from elbow down, 
and make dot 10. 

Line G, is drawn by placing arrow 4 on dot 10, 
and arrow 7 touching line A, then draw line G to 
bust number on row B, and make dot 11. Make 
dot 12 one inch in from dot 10 on line G. 

Line H, is drawn from dot 6 to dot 8, and from 
dot 8 to dot 11. 



+- 



-+ 



HJH ^ 

14 

Line I, is drawn from dot 7 to dot 9, and from dot 
9 to dot 12. Then ease out the corners with the 
shears, when you cut, as you see dotted line on 
diagram. 

NOTIGR. 

The top of the sleeve and the under side are 
drafted together, in order to separate them. Trace 
the under side through on another piece of paper 
with a tracing wheel. 

Measure the arm-hole on the draftings, and 
make the top of the sleeve about one and one-half 
inches larger than the arm-hole, then hold the full- 
ness in on top of the shoulder, when you sew the 
sleeve in. 

Locate the sleeve by placing the roundest part 
on top of the shoulder, which will be an easy 
way to make it balance. 




+- -+ 



+- 



15 

HOW TO CUT OUT THE PATTERNS. 

1st. Separate the side-back from the center-back 
by tracing the side-back through on another piece 
of paper; commence tracing at the upper end of 
line 8, which one of those lines you may prefer, 
and trace full length of paper. Then run down 
lines 10 and 12, then 6 and 7; now lift the back 
drafting and cut the side-back from the under piece, 
and cut the center-back out of the drafting, running 
down line 8 to line 7, then down line 11. 

The front and the under arm piece, are cut 
out of the front draftings. 

First cut on line A, then down 5 and around line 
6 to 10, then down 10 and 12. Next separate the un- 
der arm piece from the front by cutting out the 
under arm dart. 

How to Cut the Cloth. — Place the patterns on the 
lining, turning them end for end to make the lining 
cut to the best advantage. If the dress is to be 
open in the front, place line 1 in the front draft- 
ing one and one-half inches in from edge of goods 
for hem ; and if open in the back, place line 1 on 
the fold of the goods and allow for the hem in the 
back. Now when you get your patterns pinned on 
the lining, take a sharp tracing wheel and trace all 
around each pattern, also the w^aist line and darts, 
and line 1 in front drafting. Then lift your pat- 
terns and cut the lining, allowing one-half inch for 
seams all around, except the neck and arms-eye, 
which is cut on the tracing. Then pin the lining 
on the goods, and cut the goods to whatever style 
you desire, from the waist down. 



-f 



+- 



-+ 



16 

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 

First pass a large cord under the arms and above 
the fullest part of the bust, and tie the cord in the 
back. Have it well up under the arms and straight 
across the back. 

1st. Arms -Eye Measure is taken from the 
hench of the arm in front (at cord), up over point 
of shoulder, and down to hench of arm in back (at 
cord.) 

2d. Slope is taken from the most prominent 
bone on the back of the neck, straight down to the 
cord. 

3d. Length op Back is taken from the most 
prominent bone on the back of the neck straight 
down to waist. 

4th. Width of Back. Have the arms down, 
and measure from one side to the other, as far as 
you can see the cord. 

5th. Length of Shoulder. Place end of tape 
one and one-half inches from the center of back 
neck, and measure down to the turn of shoulder. 

6th. Bust Measure is taken straight around 
over fullest part of bust, and taken medium tight. 

7th. Waist Measure is taken around the small- 
est part of the waist, and must be taken tight. 

8th. Top of Darts is taken from the most 
prominent bone on the back of the neck, down, 
around and just under fullest part of bust. 

-n- — — ■ — *— — Ha- 



4- 



17 

9th. Front Measure is taken just the same as 
last measure, except you measure on down to 
smallest part of waist in center of front. 

10th. Sleeve. Measure from the turn of the 
shoulder to the elbow, and from elbow down to 
bone on wrist. 

11th. Skirt. Measure from the smallest part 
of waist in front, down as long as you want the 
dress. 

Note.— Always learn to take the measures in 
rotation, then set them down as tailors do — thus : 
11-8-16-14-7-36-24-14^-19-12-10-40. 



-+ 



we also manufacture 
Tracing Wheels, Tape Lines, Shears, Etc., 

And furnish them to Agents at Lowest Wholesale Prices. 

The Tracing Wheels we manufacture are steel wheels, with 
long sharp teeth, for tracing on linings without cutting the 
cloth, while at the same time they will perforate both thick- 
nesses. 
All orders and all correspondence should be addressed to 
J. A. WILSON & CO., 

243 State St., Chicago. 






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